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Tokyo is not one city, it is roughly a dozen stitched together by the world’s best train network. Shinjuku and Shibuya give you the neon that sold you the trip. Yanaka and Kagurazaka give you the low wooden houses and the reason people come back.
When to fly
Late March to early April for cherry blossom, and October to November for clear skies and maple. Both are peak — fares move a long way on the exact date, so compare a full month before committing.
Where to stay
Shinjuku for first-timers who want everything on the doorstep. Nihonbashi or Kayabacho for quieter nights and quick access to Tokyo Station. Skip the far suburbs to save a little — the fare you save disappears into taxi rides.
What a week costs
Mid-range travellers should budget for a business hotel, a rail pass for local lines, and the fact that some of the best meals in the city cost less than a sandwich at home.