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Kyoto punishes the late riser and rewards anyone willing to be at Fushimi Inari by six in the morning. Go early and the torii gates are silent. Go at eleven and you are in a queue.
When to fly
Blossom season is spectacular and busy. For space, aim for late November maple or the quiet weeks of early June before the rains settle in.
Where to stay
Around Gion for atmosphere and walkable evenings. Near Kyoto Station for cheaper rooms and easy day trips to Nara and Osaka.